Using seams, frequently referred to as gravel, may also be a cost-effective means of creating a walkway, driveway or pad. Most homeowners in decent physical health may complete this project on their own, but larger jobs will likely take more time and potentially help. Any specialized tools, like hand tampers, may often be rented from the regional hardware shop, and in most places, the lowest prices on both crushed stone to your base and larger pebbles for the top-most layers is just a nearby quarry as opposed to a house and garden facility.
Make an overview of the area you need to pave with line-marking spray paint. Measure the longest and widest points, and multiply these dimensions to ascertain the square footage of the area.
Eliminate the sod and dirt in the area, digging down 4 inches. Rake the trench smooth, and check various places to ensure the depth is even with a tape measure. Do a final raking and use a hand tamper to compact the soil, creating an even, sturdy base.
Contact your gravel company and request enough crushed stone to create a 2 1/2-inch-thick layer and enough pebbles to produce a 1 1/2-inch surface layer. Utilize the square footage you measured to estimate the quantity you’ll need. Have the stone delivered to your residence, dumping it (in two separate stacks) as close to the area you’re going to be working as possible to limit the amount of manual labor needed.
Put in a stone or brick border all the way round the outside of the area you’re paving. The stones have to stick up at least 1 inch beyond the proposed height of the path or pad. Use a mallet to press the border into the ground. If you are using a metal border, wait till after you install the crushed stone layer to install it.
Fill in the trench with the crushed stone, dumping a full wheelbarrow to the trench and smoothing it out with a rake before dropping more. Utilize a board and degree to check the path or area in various places, making adjustments with the rake as necessary, to make sure that there are no dips in the center of the area that could lead to water set. Compact the path or pad with the hand tamper.
Install metal edging along the outside of the course or pad you’re paving, cutting pieces to size with a hacksaw so that they readily fit together the form of the path or pad. Metal edging is usually set up by pushing it between the edge of the trench along with the fill stone, hammering it with a mallet to press it in the soil. Like the stone or brick, it needs to be at least 1 inch above surface flat to maintain the pebbles in place. If you’ve already installed a stone or brick border, you can skip this.
Cut a sheet of landscaping lining to match the walkway or pad, and lay it across the base of crushed stone, securing sheets with wood or metal stakes directly into the soil. This will prevent weeds or grass from growing up through the pebbles, saving you a reasonable amount of work in the future.
Fill in the path together with the seams of your choice, dumping a wheelbarrow’s worth into the trench and smoothing it out with a rake before adding more. Check that it is level at various points with a board and degree, then use a hand tamp to compact your path or pad once all the pebbles are set.
Maintain your pebble paving by pulling weeds once a month (some stray ones will likely break through the landscaping material) and raking the pebbles smooth.