Wood Stair Maintenance

Care keeps wood stairs looking their best, and it can also help the timber itself last as long as possible. Standard cleaning, scratch-and-dent touch-ups and irregular refinishing are the principal processes that help keep wood stairs. Additional measures to prevent damage, like rugs to keep debris off the ground, also can help wood stairs stay in top form.

Regular Cleanup

Clean wood stairs regularly by vacuuming and sweeping them. Avoid leaving wet stains and spills on the timber for too long, since they can soak into the timber and warp it or leave spots. When the stairs require a good cleaning with something moist, use a cleaner designed specifically for the kind of floor finish on the stairs, such as a solvent-based liquid wax designed for waxed floors.

Damage Prevention

Prevent damage by placing rugs close entrances. Rugs help keep tiny pieces of gravel off the bottoms of shoes, which prevents them from scratching wood flooring and stairs. Avoid wearing dent-causing shoes, for example skinny and hard high heels, on soft wood stairs. Protect stairs from scratches when transferring furniture by padding the corners and legs of furniture with soft socks, foam padding or bubble wrap.

Scratch and Dent Removal

Hide tiny scratches and dents in stained hardwood flooring by implementing and buffing a new layer of wax on top of the damaged area. To eliminate a dent or scratch on stairs with a penetrating finish, rub the area with a few additional penetrating finish and steel wool.

Refinishing Wood Stairs

With a lot of heavy traffic, the finish on timber stairs might become worn or cracked. Penetrating finishes can be mended at worn spots without repainting the whole floor. To fix worn spots in a penetrating finish, apply new finish to the worn spots with steel wool. Surface finishes, like varnish and shellac, need to be entirely removed and replaced when they workout. Remove finish by sanding it away either by hand or with a oscillating tool armed with a sanding attachment. Start out with a relatively coarse 20- or 60-grit sanding abrasive and complete by smoothing the ground with 120-grit abrasive. Clean up all the dust and dirt, and then apply the new finish in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions.

Mold Removal

In moist or humid locations, mold can start to grow on timber flooring. Although mold frequently seems to go away when wiped up, it normally continues to return until a disinfectant actually kills the mold spores. To kill mold spores on a timber floor, North Dakota State University recommends cleaning with a solution of 1/4 into 1/2 cup of bleach in a gallon of water. Before finishing or refinishing stairs in a home with a mold problem, start looking for a finish designed to help prevent mildew and mold from growing.

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The Way to Repair a Ping-Pong Table Surface

Ping-pong tables aren’t complex. They include dense particleboard, satin paint with white lines, a net and thighs. When used by enthusiastic players that gouge, scratch and otherwise manhandle the desk, it gets worn or damaged over time. Repairing the table is basic, allowing you to turn to normal products and do-it-yourself practices.

Like Putty in Your Hands

Remove in the table. Inspect the table for deep scratches, gouges and cracks in the paint. Use wood putty to fill the cracks. Force the putty deep into flaws to make a smear of putty within the area using a putty knife. If the cracks in the paint are only hairline marks, do not be concerned about these; paint will burst to fill those. Check the putty after it’s dry. If you can observe a recess or dip larger gouges, apply another application of putty to measure the surface. Do not use caulk or anything with a rubbery feel to fill flaws. Look for putty that is made from timber and dries. Allow the putty to dry. Many putty dries within one hour, but based on humidity or depth, it might take longer. It ought to have a chalky, nearly brittle consistency when dry.

Sand and eloquent

Sand the tabletop by hand using 180-grit sandpaper. Begin by attaching the paper into a sanding block and removing the excess putty. Until it’s even with the surface sand it. Sand the remainder of the table using the hand block. If the block begins to slide and neglects to render a powdery substance, change the paper. When you have sanded over the entire top, resand it by hand using a folded piece of 220-grit paper. The finer grit paper helps to smooth and prep the top for paint. When the table is coated in a fine powder it’s finished. Wipe the powder off using a soft fabric. Do not use excessive force when sanding or lean on the desk too hard. Tables like this are not powerful enough with their spindly legs.

Rattle Cans

Aerosol cans are good for repainting the table. Blackboard or Utilize satin paint in any color you would like. Apply a thin, even coating of paint, working in sections, forth and back, until the tabletop is wet. Allow the paint to dry and add two coats. If it looks good you are prepared to add the lines. If you can see thin spots, it’s nice to add one or two coats. Allow the paint to dry.

Tape It

Use painter’s tape to hide the lines around the perimeter and across the sides. Press the tape down tough along the edges to prevent seepage of the paint below the tape. When you have established the lines, mask the interior of the table with paper, using the tape to hold it in place. Spray the lines using paint. One initial coat is most likely sufficient, but use two coats if lines appear thin. Peel off the paint if it’s dry. Allow the table before using it to cure overnight.

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Surface Prep Requirements When Laying Tile

With an abundance of colors, designs and sizes to pick from, tile features custom style and durability for floors, countertops and walls. Tile is a high-end end, due in part to the high labor costs of installing the shingles. If you’re familiar with basic tile setting tools, then you can save yourself money by laying your own shingles. Preparing the surface correctly can mean the difference between a tile job that lasts a life or tile that comes and breaks loose.

Proper Floor Structure

Once the grout sets, a new tile floor is a good sheet, along with any movement of the floor under can cause the ground to decipher. Because of this, it isn’t a good idea to install a tile floor over floor trussesthat can be made to move or “deflect.” A traditional floor consisting of joists offers a much better foundation for tile.

What Lies Beneath

Tiling is an alternative for covering old flooring that would be tricky to eliminate, like an existing tile floor. This is a frequent practice during remodeling projects, however, the best-case situation is to lay new tiles directly on underlayment. Concrete slabs are acceptable for laying tile so long as they are flat and never crumbling. Exterior-grade plywood or cementboard provide optimum surfaces for laying shingles. Carpeting and loose or bubbling linoleum must be removed, as must old tile that isn’t well-adhered into the substrate below.

Tiling Countertops

Laying tile on countertops takes a moisture barrier to protect the plywood or fiberboard that rests on the cabinet base. An effective means to accomplish this would be to set a 4-mil polyethylene sheet above the plywood base, then put cement board on top of that. Wrap the polyethylene above the edges of the plywood to guard it and install a narrow strip of cement board along the edge to hold it in position. Without adequate moisture protection, water, especially around the sink, can seep through grout joints and saturate the plywood base, causing it to delaminate, swell and crack the countertop.

Walls, Showers and Tub Surrounds

Tile does not need to be around a flat surface; tiled walls add custom fashion to bathrooms, mudrooms and playrooms. For walls not subject to moisture, then you can tile above ground, but remove old wallpaper. Greenboard, a type of moisture-treated drywall, is acceptable for walls that will not experience frequent splashes of water. If you’re masonry inside shower walls that will often be wet, then install cement board and tape seams with fiberglass mesh tape made for cement board (do not use standard fiberglass drywall tape) along with mortar. Utilize a shower pan liner on a bathtub floor before laying shingles.

Wash Surface

A clean surface is crucial for laying tile. Vacuum or sweep away all debris and dust. Remove loose floor tiles and fill the voids with thinset. If you’re tiling over existing glazed tile, then scuff the surface of the old shingles, either with sandpaper or with a chemical sanding alternative, to remove the shine for the mortar or thinset to efficiently adhere.

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How To Repair a Teak Floor

Teak is thought to be one of the more compact and durable hardwoods. But even teak flooring in houses and on boat decks are exposed to scratches and gouges. In case the entire flooring needs repair, enlist a flooring refinishing contractor to fix and restore the floor. As a do-it-yourself homeowner, then you can repair minor scratches or gouges using a method employed by professionals. Find a wood filler in the exact same tone as the floor and organize a couple of hand tools to fix your teak flooring.

Sand the teak floor in the direction of the woodgrain at the area of a scratch or gouge to start the surface grain of the wood, using a 100-grit sanding block. Remove the sanding dust, using a vacuum.

Fill a deeper scratch along with a gouge with wood filler, with a plastic putty knife. Use the filler in the direction of a scrape. Instead, apply it in the directions at a gouge. Allow the filler to dry completely. Sand the filler and surrounding area uniformly, sanding at the direction of the woodgrain. Remove the sanding dust using the vacuum.

Apply a moderate number of teak oil onto a tiny area of a rag. Use the oil to the repair, working in the direction of the woodgrain. Make sure to use the oil to the and surrounding area. Allow the oil to penetrate for a single minute. Wipe the area with a clean portion of the rag. Enable the oil to penetrate overnight.

Shake a spray can of polyurethane for a single minute if your teak flooring has a clear-coat sealer. Shake it moderately so that the steel ball inside the can mixes the heavier portion of the spray thoroughly. Open a window or a door for ventilation, as necessary.

Hold the nozzle of the can eight inches from the floor. Spray on the polyurethane at the sanded and surrounding area with uniform strokes at the direction of the woodgrain. Allow the polyurethane to dry for three hours.

Smooth the entire area in the direction of the woodgrain, using fine steel wool. Use only enough pressure on the wool to make a smooth, uniform appearance. Clean out the area, using the vacuum.

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How to Fix Broken Grout on Tile Floors

Installed grout and tile should permit for the normal expansion and contraction of vinyl floors; however, even minor earthquake tremors may cause the grout. When the grout cracks for any reason, it is time before there is any harm to the flooring to fix broken grout. While grout may crack from wear and tear, an irregular or weak subfloor might be causing the issue. Ask an engineer to check into the underlying cause of the issue, if you need to fix grout numerous times on any one floor.

Measure the width of the grout lines in your tile flooring. If the traces are significantly less than one-eighth of an inch, then you need latex grout. Sanded grout is wider than one-eighth of an inch needed by grout lines. The exception of this is marble vinyl flooring. Sanded grout scrapes the surface.

Eliminate of this broken grout to carry to home improvement store or the tile. Match grout to the sample. You might be able to use less or more water as you mix the grout to get an specific match on the grout color, but doing this might affect the quality of the feel along with its integrity of the grout.

Mix 1 part white vinegar 1 part water. Wash out the area of grout using the vinegar mix.

Cut the damaged grout with a grout saw. Add the blade of the saw, which resembles around or a screwdriver handle into the joint together with the grout, using a saw on the end. Move the saw back and forth along the joint to cut the grout. Because you move the saw along the joint if the grout is difficult to eliminate, apply more pressure viewed. Take care to not damage the tiles.

Wipe a paper towel on the line that is grout to wash it out. Remove any extra water puddled from the grout lines. Leave the tile’s sides moist to help the grout bind.

Follow package directions for adding the correct quantity of water to the grout you selected. Pre-mixed grout gets the appropriate proportions of Portland cement, and sand, if needed. Add water to the grout at a mixing jar. When it is the appropriate consistency, the grout should hold together in a ball. Push the grout to the joint using a grout float. Smooth the joint together with the end of a craft stick.

Wipe the surface of the tiles using a clean, damp sponge. Rinse the sponge regularly to avoid grout . Allow the grout to dry following manufacturer’s recommendations. Temperature and humidity may affect drying times.

Wash the surface of the tiles thoroughly with a soft fabric. Combine 1 part white vinegar 1 part water, if the fabric does not eliminate the haze. Wipe this mix over the tile using a sponge. Wipe it dry using the fabric.

Employ a grout sealer with a small paintbrush following manufacturer’s instructions. Allow the grout sealer.

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